intermittent presets on a B-3

[GOFFProf@aol.com]

<Mashall asks - "...fix for intermittent presets on a C-3 on both manuals.>

The problem sounds to me like it is a close-adjustment on the preset cradle
latches, which set the downward tension on the preset keys.  The following is
a condensed version of the fix:

There is a preset cradle latch for each manual, located under the left-hand
endblock to the LEFT of the preset keys.  This endblock, made of wood on
early organs and black-plastic on newer organs, is held in place by two
screws which run up through a thick black-plywood support on the very end of
the manuals.  The screws are slightly off-center (left of center) for both
types of endblocks.  

(This is the type of repair covered in the B-3 / C-3 Technical Service
Manual, <$30.> which also details how you raise the manuals to perform key
replacements, etc. )

Once you have raised the upper manual and propped it up, remove the two
screws fastening the endblock to the organ, then remove the endblock. LOOK
inside the cavity the endblock covered and find an odd V-shaped piece of
metal with a slotted-hole held in place with one screw. It has another piece
of spring-metal jutting out from it which is the cradle latch "spring".  

THIS DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED, ONLY RE-ADJUSTED FOR MORE TENSION ON THE
PRESET CRADLE LATCH!!  Loosen the screw and slide the cradle latch, then
tighten the screw.  Try the presets to see if they have more tension.  If
they do not stay latched at all, or are "worse", you have moved the slotted
hole the wrong way in relation to it's set screw.  Move it back to its
original location, then slide it slightly more (in the opposite direction
from the first adjustment) and re-tighten the screw. 

This should fix the problem.  Repeat the adjustment for the lower manual, but
remember when raising manuals, pull out all drawbars to position 8, then prop
up one or both manuals before you attempt to remove the screws on the manual
left-hand endblock.  

I suggest that you use a stubby straight-slot screwdriver with a LARGE bit to
remove the screws, especially on organs with wooden endblocks.  When you
reinstall them, use WD-40 or other lubricant on the threads to help with the
re-installation.

Note that on organs with black-plastic endblocks, I put my controls in them
for many modifications - lower endblock- Leslie speed control switch; upper
endblock- Percussion volume control, reverb control, chorus control, MIDI
control, etc.  They are tailor-made for controls.  

If you mount controls in the plastic endblocks - BE CAREFUL!!  You MUST
install them to the RIGHT of center to clear the black-plywood mounting piece
on the extrreme left of the manuals. The controls will not be in exactly the
center of the block, but who cares.  Also, note that there are two plastic
dividers which divide the block into three separate pockets.  DO NOT break
these or the endblock will be weakened and WILL break.

For Leslie switching, get any type of ON-OFF switch (I like rocker switches)
that you like and mount it carefully in the lower block. Tie the two wires
from your old Leslie brown-case switch onto the new switch and you'll have a
new Leslie switch for very few $$$.  We have brand-new replacement steel
endblocks for mounting switches, etc. and new Leslie rocker switches already
mounted in these steel endblocks. The old brown-case switches are no longer
available, bit they always breakoff anyway.  Make the change to the lower
left-hand endblock switch or foot-switch and save yourself much trouble
ahead.  Except for very few organs, I replace EVERY old-style brown-case
half-moon style switch on our professional organs with endblock switches
and/or foot-switches. 

Hope this helps.  If not, you need a HAMMOND tech!!  Don't fool with it too
much or you may do more damage than you can imagine!  If you want to work on
your own organs, at least use the Service Manual!  It will save you anguish an
d money......


Al Goff, GOFF Professional, via AOL