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These are the archives from Mark Longo's original Hammond List, 1994-97



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Re: CX-20



Skylar Spencer wrote:
> 
> >>
> >> I have a CX-20 hammond cabinet that I acquired from the original owner
> >> (real old guy) who had it on a BV.  I've had it some 10 years and  was
> >> wondering if it was of any value to a collector?
> >>
> >> Sky     skylar@rapidramp.com
> > How much?  And where is it located?
> >
> 
>   The CX-20 I described seems to be completly original - even both amp
> access cover screws are there.  The finish is cracked and the output
> transformer is bad however.
> 
>   I was once offered a cloned B3 - an A100 in a older B? case. Eventhough
> it was functionally a B3, the case was different, in particular the legs
> I was told were slightly different.  Recently I posted a message
> "No B3 ....." asking other ways to tell if a B3 was really a B3 but only
> received a reply to look at the model plate inside.
> 
>   Was this the proverbial "10 foot pole" question?  I personally know of
> dealers that have done this, being a Baldwin tech for over 20 years, and
> have even heard of the making of counterfeit model tags.
> 
>   The CX-20 is in my shop in east Texas to get back to your original
> question along with some other old Hammond stuff.  I would like to trade
> it for a rentable B3, one that I know is a B3, in reasonable condition -
> a few scrapes and bumps OK.
> 
> Hope I haven't shaken up any of you Hammond tech's to much, I've had to
> work for some shady dealers too.
> 
> Sky
> skylar@rapidramp.com
> 
>   I've been a Baldwin tech for over 20 years and worked on my share of
> Hammonds along with collecting A's, B's, cabinets ...


Hey there!  Me too to all of the above.  The problem is that, there isn't 
much else than that plate to go on.  Early models (A,B,C,BV,CV,B2,C2) 
placed the model plate on the reostat box cover, so if origonal guts were 
removed and then B3 guts put in, all they'd have to do is move the B3's 
plate/tag into the new console and you'd never be able to tell.

I can give you only limited pointers on the case.

1) Early models A,B,C did NOT have the junction box on the pedal casing, 
insted the cables were hard wired and run down one of the tubes beside 
the swell pedal, and out of the end of the treble end of the console.  
Look for a big round hole there.

2) Very early models of the A,B,C used big coil springs UNDER the 
generator, (This caused the bottom of the case to sag).  These springs 
fit into small pits in the bottom board of the console, look for them.

3) Look for evidence of screws having been in those ledges on each side 
(inside) pre-B3 organs have a metal bridge from side to side, that held 
he preamp.  (origonally to accomidate the chorus generator and the 
bakalite slider of the reostat)

4) Look for holes for lock down bolts of a chorus generator (they would 
have been to the rear of the main generator.


That's about it, and this doesn't apply to BV/CV or B2/C2 models because 
some models were produced using cabinets from earlier models.  (This made 
sense insted of ditching a completed cabinet)  The factory would use up 
old production stock so a BV *may* have a little plastic cover where the 
Chorus knob of an earlier model BC would have been.


BTW, and totally off topic, Baldwin Tech?  How bout those Instant 
Orchestra Bd's?  Or the MCX Modules?  UG!  OY!   @#^&$%*!

See ya!


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