|
Hammond@zk3.dec.com Archives
| |
|
These are the archives from Mark Longo's original Hammond List, 1994-97
| ||
|
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] RE: Stuck Notes
At 03:45 PM 7/5/96 PDT, you wrote: > >>The B-3 I play at church has developed stuck notes (always on) on both >>sets of drawbars on the lower manual only. This affects only the first >>(left hand) drawbar of each set. >>Any and all ideas on how to proceed with a fix are greatly appreciated! > >You almost surely have a stuck or bent key contact under one or more >of the keys of the lower manual. Unfortunately, it is pretty hard to get >in >and fix. First, figure out which key is causing the problem. Pull out >just >the drawbar that turns on the stuck tone, and play chromatically from the > >bottom of the keyboard up, until you find the key that matches the stuck >frequency. Strike the key sharply 8 or 10 times to see if the contact >frees >itself (this is unlikely, but worth a shot). I recently posted a lengthy >tale of >some fixes I made to key contacts. It involved removing all the keys >from >the manual and removing the top cover plate from the key contact stacks. > > >Reply privately and I will send it to you if you are interested. > >Another technique which can work if the contact is not bent, but just >caught >on the wrong side of the buss bar, is to prop up the keyboards enough to >get to the buss bar access plate on the left side of the keyboard, remove >it, >and pull just the bottom buss bar out (this is the buss bar for the >left-hand >drawbar in each set), then reseat it and hope the contact sprang back in >place. It can be tricky to reseat the buss bar, and experienced techs >have >special tricks and ways to hold their tongue to get it back in<g>. > However, >this is a lot less work than disassembling the keyboard and going in from >the >top. If you decide to try fixing it yourself, I'd recommend trying this >first. >Good luck! > > All above points are good advice. Another possible cause is a bussrod that has a failed spot weld. The contact wire may raise enough to touch the contact. Try turning the bussrod shifter from one extreme to the other. *CAUTION* do not press any keys while doing this and make sure no presets are latched. This may get you by for a while. If this is the case, the permanent cure is a new rod. There are three types used, so make sure you order the correct one. Replacement is best left to a pro. Bob S. Fax: (510) 530-3228 E-Mail: bobs@hopf.dnai.com Shop phone: (510) 530-0112
|