Re: Reassembling a B-3

[<RSolveson@aol.com>]

Hi Hans:
My name is Rick Solveson and I live in Ft. Myers, Florida, USA. I read your
post on the Hammond list and thought I would try and help with some
suggestions if I may. I have owned a B-3 for many years though I have never
taken it apart. I can not help you with any reassembly procedures. I do
happen to have a design custom woodworking business and have been doing
cabinetry work for years and years. 
As far as glue goes I can vouch for Titebond yellow wood glue, Franklin's
wood glue or even Elmer's yellow wood glue. Let me worn you though, if you
use any of these glue's the chances are that if you ever try and take it
apart again that the wood will break anywhere except at the glue line which
means you will destroy the wood piece. You could always just glue the two
broken pieces with this same glue and it will be as good as new. In fact if
you tried to take it apart again it  would just break somewhere else. This
may give you some idea of the strength of these glues. 
If you are considering taking it apart again just use Elmer's white glue. 
Scratches?
An old trick in the refinishing business is to use a product called Old
English Scratch. It was used alot in the retail business (both furniture and
organ/pianos) and covers and blends in scratches and scuffs. If it's a deep
scratch there are a number of fillers to match the type of wood that you
have. Check local wood supply sources. 
The first thing you are going to have to do is to determine what was done
originally in order to match that particular finish. Mine is a cherry cabinet
that was sprayed with a Nitrocellulos lacquer. That is a very nice and easily
workable finish if sprayed on. Whether or not it is available to you is
another question. It is for me here is Florida but it is not in many states
and countries. This type of lacquer (which most kinds are) is made by many
different company's and as long as it tells you that it is nitrocellulos
lacquer it will probably work for you . As you may have guessed finishing is
an art in itself and there are a number of products each preferred by
different individuals. 
If you are through the veneer you may have a rough time trying to make it
unnoticable. How  you prep the surface (with fillers, etc) and sand will
determine the outcome. There are also many different techniques from
spraying, brushing and scraping, spotting and respraying a portion of you
piece. Usually taped off at natural breaks in the furniture (seams, edges and
joints).
I'm proceeding on the assumption that your organ is sprayed with lacquer and
not stained or recoated with any other type of finish.
If you are in doubt you may want to consider stripping the entire machine and
recoating with what's available to you. One of my personal favorites is an
oil finish (Tung oil, Danish oil etc.) with a carnuba wax topcoat. It's easy
to do, is a cinch to repair, and provides a great, hard finish. I have used
it on everything from hand made Tai Ji swords to classic car dashboards.
This is an in depth subject but don't let it scare you. You can make you organ
 look great. Like most things it takes time and patience.
I hope this is of some benefit to you. If I can be of any more help don't
hesitate to email me.
Rick Solveson
rsolveson@aol.com
Ft. Myers, Fl